Speaker Related Projects

  Can-Less
(A computer speaker; redux. December-2005)

  Can-Can
(A computer speaker in a light canister. Jan-2005)

  Shiva_PR15
(A powered subwoofer using a 12" driver and 15" passive radiator. Work in progress. Aug-2003)

  Sonosub
(10" vented subwoofer in a cardboard tube, powered by a Parapix amp. May-1999)

  MTM Center Channel Speaker
(A Madisound design. Nov-1997)

  2-way Surround Speakers
(5" woofer and 1" tweeter. July 1997)

  3-piece mini system
(6" DVC bass module mated to 4" car speaker. June 1997)

  3-way Vented Floorstanding Speaker
(vented 10" woofer, 5" mid and 1" tweeter in a 4 ft tower. Summer 1995)

  NHT1259 Subwoofer
(A 12" woofer in a sealed architectural pedestal. Winter 1994-95)

  Inexpensive Speaker Stands
(Particle board, sand and spray paint. Fall 1994)

  2-way satellite
(6.5" woofer and 1" tweeter. Summer/Fall 1994)


Electronics Related Projects

  A PC-based Audio Console
(Use a PC to play tunes. Work in Progress. Feb-2004)

 LM-12 Amp
(Bridged LM-12 opamps. Aug-2003)

  CeeDeePee
(A CD player and FM tuner from spare computer parts. Oct-2002)

  Quad 2000 4-Channel Amp
(Premade modules by Marantz. May-1998)

  Zen Amp and Bride of Zen Preamp
(by Nelson Pass. Apr-1997)

 

Articles

  Backing-up LPs to CD-R
(Whiningdog.net 10-Dec-2002)

 Using Wood in Speakers FAQ
(Work in progress)

  MDF FAQ for speaker builders

  Woodworking Tools for the DYIer
(HomeTheaterHiFi.com Oct-1998)

 Some Thoughts on Cabinet Finished for DIY Speakers

  Large Grills Made Easy

  Some Parts Suppliers
(Outdated)

 

Other Useful Stuff

  DIY Audio Related URLs

 Veneering Primer
(by Keith Lahteine)

  How to get a Black Piano Finish
(by DYI Loudspeaker List members)

  Sonotube FAQ
(by Gordon McGill)

  Excerpts from the Bass List
(Oldies but Goodies)

 

DIY Loudspeaker List

  Current DIY Loudspeaker Forum Home

  Former DIY Loudspeaker List Subscription Page

  DIY Loudspeaker List Archives

 

Audio Console

Power Supply

Over the years, I've collected a number of ATX power supplies. Frankly, I don't even remember where each one came from. I picked one that had enough empty space that I could cut about 3/4 inch off the sides of the sheet metal. I relocated the output cable bundle down in the new shorter housing.

A 60 mm Panaflow fan replaced the original 80mm unit. The fan is mounted with two screws and seperated from the plastic case by Mortite weatherstriping caulk. To further reduce noise, a 50 ohm, 12 watt pot is installed on the rear panel to give me control over the fan speed. Maximum attenuation would yield a voltage of only 6.2V instead of the normal 12V.

The original power supply had a 115V/230V switch. It is now hardwired to 115VAC. An input IEC 3-prong power connector and switch are added to the back panel.

Disk Drive

The single 3-1/2 inch disk drive is mounted on two wooden slats. The slats are then mounted to the bottom of the case. This is a lot easier than trying to align screws from the bottom of the chassis directly into the disk drive. A small rubber grommet isolates the drive from the wood slat at each screw to reduce vibration transmission.

Assembly

The motherboard rests on several raised plastic supports. These were originally used to support the VCR's PCBs. I used a Dremel to level these posts to the same height. Only two screws hold the motherboard in place.

The power supply is held in place with three small bolts.

In the rear panel, audio line-in and line-out connectors are mounted (photo left). Both 1/8 inch stereo and RCA connectors are used. I wanted the option of using a Cirque Glidepad instead of that little rubber eraser mouse on the keyboard so I installed a 9-pin serial connector to a header on the motherboard. This required re-working a ribbon cable. Finally, a single RCA jack provides NTSC video output. There is no VGA connector. The photo on the right shows the final layout of the three main parts - motherboard, power supply and hard disk drive.

USB

With the main computer built, I turned my attention to expansion capabilities. With the limitations imposed by the size of the box and the motherboard used, my only option was USB. For networking, I used a Netgear WiFi USB dongle. Any other expansion needs would be attached via a 4-in-1 USB hub. The hub is glued to the rear of the unit with double sided sticky foam. Cables for both the hub and the WiFi dongle are coiled and left inside the chassis.

The picture on the left shows the addition of the USB cables towards the top of the picture. The picture on the right shows the position of the USB hub on the back panel with ports facing up.

 

 

 

 

Update 14-Oct-2005

The motherboard audio chip is connected to the output solder pads via the J7 header. My motherboard did not have the standard 1/8 inch audio connectors installed on these pads thus the jumpers from the audio chip were not installed by default. Insert jumpers on pins 3-4, 5-6 and 7-8 of header J7 to enable the audio chip.

 

07-July-2005

updated 14-October-2005

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